Took the Kapu way to Hana, and it was amazing.

As you all know, the island of Maui is known for many things, but one attraction will always stand out. And that is the Road to Hana, but did you know there is a kapu way?

What exactly is The Road to Hana?

The Road to Hana is a world-famous stretch of road located in north central Maui. It connects the remote town of Hana, situated at the eastern tip of the island, with the island’s main population centers, including the resorts where most tourists stay. This beautiful stretch of the road presents many challenges, but like most places, there is the usual “right” way and the kapu way to make the journey to Hana.

What is Kapu?

Kapu is a Hawaiian word that, like most Hawaiian words, can mean more than one thing. Kapu, in particular, suggests no trespassing or keeping out. But it’s most commonly associated with forbidden in the context of the kapu way to Hana. Going through the south is the Kapu way to journey to Hana.

In other words, kapu means to avoid.

So why is heading south considered Kapu?

If you have ever taken the journey to Hana the way 99% of people have, then you know that road will keep you on the edge of your seat—one-lane sections, bridges, stop-and-go traffic, rain, flash floods, etc. But there are also beautiful views, scenery, lush greens, and plenty of waterfalls—in addition to plenty of attractions, roadside vendors, and multiple communities with plenty to offer.

It was a journey indeed.

Take all that away; the southern route is also its own separate journey. This route is on the leeward side of the island(which faces away from the wind), leading to a far dryer climate. There are barely any communities or population centers on this side of Maui. There are no gas stations, roadside vendors, or lush green jungles, although there are some waterfalls when nearing Hana. And worse yet, if anyone were to complain that their precious cell phone service was unreliable in the northern route, try barely any cell reception, if any, for miles going the other way.

The Kapu way to Hana is “unauthorized.”

Many rental car companies will advise you not to take your vehicle down this road due to poor road conditions, winding turns, and plenty of hazards (all true, by the way)—a genuinely off-the-beaten-path area, away from everything. It is considered an “unauthorized road,” a term rental car companies use. If you should drive on that road, you will be responsible for repairs and rescue. And it comes out of your pocket.

If you are going to be crazy like me, I suggest you take a 4×4 vehicle. I drove a Jeep Wrangler, and it did very well. I can’t imagine having someone take a sports car here.

If you don’t like brown and barren, old lava fields, then this road is also not for you. For me, however, its isolation from the rest of civilization makes it alluring. But I kid you not; it’s not for the faint of heart. The cost of being stranded here can be a full-day event before any assistance comes to you. It is very expensive, too, for not many insurance companies will dispatch help to the area either. To my amazement, the site is full of abandoned cars, which a tourist will never see on a brochure. Let’s say vehicle ownership in Hawaii is complicated. It is forcing many residents to leave their cars.

It’s tough out there.

Along this road, you’ll also find a general lack of population, except for the countless feral goats and deer that call southeastern Maui home. The southern way offers barely any traffic, which gives you time to enjoy the scenery or drive like a turtle. Traffic is practically nonexistent here, whereas the northern route can be a traffic nightmare. It is primarily due to the elements and being the only commuter route for that side of the island, not discounting its allure as a popular tourist destination.

If you are seriously considering taking this route, consider the warnings and bring plenty of fluids, a spare tire, and a full gas tank. And although I’ve mentioned low traffic levels, this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be cautious. This route is growing in popularity; traffic is increasing. Be mindful that the route has plenty of hills, drops, cliffside roads, mudslides when it rains, and multiple blind spots. Let alone the wild animals that think the road belongs to them. Don’t forget that while it is technically a “two-lane” road, it is very narrow.

Which way to Hana?

Some folks do a full circle by driving to Hana through the south, then staying at Hana and returning to their resorts the usual way, through the north. Others do it in reverse. I did neither of those.

I took the Kapu road down and back because why not? But that’s just me. And I also took the regular road, down and back. Let me tell you, the difference is unreal.

As for traveling the Kapu way, what’s worse, going to or coming from Hana? Well, the truth is that either direction is challenging, but I felt it was harder going down to Hana than coming back from Hana.

What is far more incredible is that all of this is happening on an island slightly smaller than the state of Rhode Island.

Some Pictures from my journey on the Kapu way to Hana.

It is a vastly different world when compared to the northern route.

The most isolated black sand beach in Hawaii

On the way to Hana, you’ll find this small, secluded beach before you cross the Alelele Bridge by the Alelele waterfall. Take a minute and stop by this secluded black sand beach for great picture opportunities. Like everything on this journey, always be cautious.

Past the beach and things of note

Past the beach and roughly another half hour- forty-five minutes, you’ll find yourself in the full, lush green, close to the town of Hana, the ‘Ohe’o Gulch, and Pipiwai Trail—one of the most significant attractions on the road to Hana, regardless of north or south. The latter is often missed due to its distance from most hotels. But, it is so worth the effort to reach it. Stay tuned for my future post on the Gulch and the Pipiwai trail.

You can also visit the Charles Lindbergh grave site, which is located at Palapala Ho’omau Church.

They say the road to Hana is not about the destination but the journey, and quite frankly, having done both routes, it is true indeed. Truthfully, his route is not for everyone, and I won’t encourage you to take it if you don’t feel comfortable with it. But if you are like me, adventurous and daring, and want to live and not just exist, go for it. But remember safety first, and don’t tell your rental company.

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If anyone wants to add or share any tips or wants to share some thoughts, please feel free to comment below.